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Wednesday, July 29, 2015

those manipulative darts



 this is my bodice block, drafted all by myself.i know someone somewhere is going to whine about some kind of infringement, but onward i go. there is a gap  on the shoulder  to collar line, this is the bust dart.there's another dart at the bottom. 






this gap is a dart that has to be closed .the bottom dart needs to be slashed open and manipulated so it ..


..fits the dart on the front skirt block. the dart on the skirt also needs to be moved to match the bodice.they have to be the same width.then you join both blocks to get your dress block.














so far it's pretty ordinary, but what if you want to move the bust dart to the armhole? whoa!!
we're talking big leagues here; there are various methods for manipulating darts, slash and open pivoting, but despair not as there are awesome tutorials.

the shortlist:
http://www.ohsewfashion.com/p/main.html
http://www.ohsewfashion.com/2012/11/dart-manipulation-pivoting.html
http://www.ohsewfashion.com/2012/11/dart-manipulation-slash-spread.htm
http://www.sew2pro.com/dart-manipulation/



it just takes a bit of patience and a lot of erasing. once you get your basic dress block it becomes the foundation for creating any style you want.i am closer to making my final pattern  ^_^




neki desu
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3 comments:

  1. I learnt pattern cutting at adult college, unfortunately I go pregnant half way through so drafting the perfect pattern got hard, I don't do much dressmaking now so tend to adapt ready made patterns, so it was good to learn how to, it is a useful tool though as you say you can make any style from a basic block.

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  2. love your determination.

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  3. I made a basic block a long time ago. It's a fun challenge! Don't forget it probably still needs some tweaking to fit properly - 2D to 3D isn't always as straightforward as the tutorials show (at least on this body!). Lately I've been relying more on several well-fitting patterns that allow me to quickly adjust commercial patterns and to make other styles and "frankenpatterns". Unlike a basic block they have some wearing ease and they sure speed up the fitting process for me. Shoulders, armscyes and sleeve caps are the most important fit areas and the rest is easy. Good luck!

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interaction appreciated!

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