valencian silk-2

 

the 15th century  was valencia’s golden age. a period  when its agriculture, silk industry and location helped make it a power in trade and commerce  in the mediterranean. wealth generated supported a blossoming in the arts. the late-gothic La Lonja  gives a sense of  what this period  was.  the former silk trading market with its multi-columned trading hall and lovely wooden carved ceilings is a UNESCO world heritage site.

the importance of silk in the economy of the city is evident  in

the founding of the velluters or silk workers' guild in 1474.

the word velluters comes from the word vellut, which means velvet in catalan.in 1479, several bylaws were enacted and the trade of velluter was established.

silk rapidly became a huge enterprise for the whole city and

much later, in the 17th century, carlos II, the last hapsburg monarch, raised the valencia guild of velvet makers to the level of a college of arts.the crown set up a royal factory in the city to supply its requirements and also to serve other markets including the colonies. the factory modernized production and introduced many technological improvements.

unfortunately, it is being renovated so we could not visit.

the time line has not been interrupted there are plenty of  signs that the trade although at a different scale  is still alive.for the romantic within me it was very uplifting to find a store who uses a a frieze a simulation in metal of a cut jacquard card.
could not ask for more!

well, perhaps another paella :)

neki desu

valencian silk-1

in the 18th century valencia  rivaled  lyon with its silk industry. silk was raised, spun and woven in lavish brocades which frequently included gold and silver threads. the city managed to create a style of its own which has been studied in detail, especially the designs based on what is known as  pintura de flores (flower paintings) produced in the Real Academia de San Carlos.
 

much of the textiles were exported to cadiz and through its port to other european cities and  and the new world.  yet some of them  found their way in the country to dress wealthy ladies in goyesque style, dressing as majas, a style  considered to be the result of a rebellion against French fashion. 

the style became the germ of the traditional valencian regional dress which nowadays is used during the fallas.  the falleras are the court ladies, sometimes escorted by men, of the fallas and one of the important rites during the festivities includes electing the fallera mayor, a sort of mega prom queen.

consequently, thanks to the keeping of this traditional dress, silk weaving  in valencia albeit not as important an industry as in the past, is still carried on.

there are several stores in town that produce their own fabrics based on old designs and others specialise in reproducing traditional patterns.there are even a few jacquard handweavers using old looms.

      

not all the fabrics are silk, there's plenty of rayon to cut on costs. but  i was assured all of the fabrics are local, none imported from china. not surprisingly prices are high and a whole fallera outfit including the combs, jewelry, hairpiece, lace, shoes and  underwear can run up to a good 10,000€ . more if the combs and jewelry are gold, pearls  and gemstones... an heirloom indeed.

neki desu

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for die hard textilians

 

 

 

 

 enticing you with  textile traditions from valencia,spain.today just the eye candy.information coming up on monday. for a larger view click on the photo.
have a great summer weekend!


neki desu